Monday, May 25, 2009

PJ Top Tutorial

I finally finished sewing a pair of pj shorts I started last summer. They turned out comfy and fit well, so the pattern is a keeper. They even match the newest race t-shirt I got last weekend, but most race t-shirts are not very comfortable on me, because they are sized for men.

My neck gets hot since the necklines are too close, and the hems are too long and too tight around the bottom. So I decided to modify the t-shirt and, while I was at it, make it even more coordinated with the pants.


Cut the neckline trim off. You can cut .5-1 inch below the seam as I did, or you can cut just below the seam if you want a bit closer fit.

Make 1.25-inch bias strips from your pants fabric. I had just a couple scraps, so I had to cut several strips and sew them together.

Leaving about 6 inches of the bias tape unsewn, and starting about 3 inches from the center back, sew the bias tape to the neckline with a .25-in. seam. Place the right side of the bias tape to the wrong side of the t-shirt neckline.

When you get past the second shoulder seam, lift the needle and cut the thread. Overlap and cut the bias tape with the unsewn part from the beginning so there is a 1.25 in. overlap. (Similar to how you put on continuous binding to the quilt edge.) With right sides together, make a diagonal seam to join the ends of the bias tape.

Continue sewing bias to the neckline until complete.

Press the bias tape so it lies on the outside of the neckline.

Turn the bias tape raw edge to the seam line, fold against the t-shirt fabric so the tape lies completely to the outside of the t-shirt neckline.

Sew the bias tape close to the edge to complete the neckline trim.


Cut 2 inches off the bottom.

Measure 3 .5 inches up from the bottom on either side and cut a slit.

Pin a length of bias tape along the slit, with the right side of the bias tape to the wrong side of the t-shirt.

Sew a .25-in. seam along the bias tape, but taper the seam to the end of the slit on the t-shirt fabric. See photo.

Press the seam toward the tape.

Press the raw edge of the tape over .25 inch. Fold the pressed edge to the seam line and stitch close to the folded edge so it just barely covers the seam line. This is NOT the same as the neckline was sewn.
(More photos will be added)
With the right side of t-shirt fabric together, pinch a fold in the bias tape and sewn diagonally across the fold.

Trim bias tape to match bottom edge, if necessary.

Fold and press bottom edges of front and back up 1 inch.

Sew 5/8 inch from the bottom on front and back. Sew again .25 inch above the first hem line.

Press hems from outside of t-shirt.


Hint for making pants: add a small loop of ribbon under the waistline casing in back so you can tell which is the back of the pants.

How do you like the new pjs?

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